Friday, June 29, 2012

Allured Books 30% off Summer Sale

SHARE with your perfumer and B&B friends - Allured Books is again offering a great discount to make your summer cool!
Read below:

SUMMER DISCOUNT: 30% through September 15, 2012
Coupon Code:anya30

All Alluredbooks including new ones below. A few sample pages on the title page (links below) will help youdecide if the book is right for you.

Of course - Arctander Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin- still in stock!

New Books: Coloring the Cosmetic World

Practical Modern Hair Science

Essential Oils Volume 9

Preservatives for Cosmetics (regulatory and preservatives may be of special interest.)

Sunday, June 24, 2012

The Perfume Commune: Natural Perfumers Guild perfumer Alexandra Balahoutis and LeLabo's Fabrice Penot

This is a must-read!  I'm delighted and heartened by this meeting of the minds  Thanks to Cafleurebon for once again scooping everyone and getting these two perfume giants to tell all in an interview.  Plus, there's a giveaway :-) 

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Nothing New Under the Sun: Adulteration of Essential Oils for Perfumery - Sophisticated Trickery

I was looking for vintage aromatics on eBay, and came across the ad, below. I didn't save the image, so I googled and found the one above.   It seems that the firm of Magnus Mabee and Reynard was sued for adulterating their oils in 1914, and they lost.  The history of the herb and spice trade, and then the essential oils/absolutes/attars trade have historically been rife with adulteration.  I learned about this when as an undergraduate, completing studies in economic botany I found out that the word "sophistication" had its roots in this price-gouging, false-advertising practice.  From 


adjective (after what you would expect, i.e., worldly), comes:

3.deceptive; misleading.

and sophisticate -

verb (used with object)
3. to make less natural, simple, or ingenuous; make worldly-wise.
4. to alter; pervert: to sophisticate a meaning beyond recognition. 

Here's the recent ad that sparked this blog post (note: it is no longer viewable on eBay):

Antique Early 1900's Bottle from Magnus, Mabee, and Reynard eBay 

Very RARE very early 1900's bottle This bottle is from the Magnus, Mabee, & Reynard company-Importers and Manufacturers in New York, U.S.A.

This is a 4 OZ Bottle       The label also says Purity and Strength      OIL CAJEPUT Tenth Revision
The bottle was made before the screw on caps and THE ORIGINAL CORK IS VERY MUCH INTACT!.
The history of Magnus, Mabee, and Reynard shows that they were sued in Federal Court "U.S. v. Magnus. Mabee, & Reynard" for adulterating their pure oils.
In court they pleaded guilty and were fined $150. I will include the paperwork. The suit covered the ADULTERATION AND MISBRANDING OF OIL
This is court document F.D. No. 3594 issued March 5th 1914. This bottle of Oil of Cajeput may or may not have been a part of this discovery of misbranding and adulteration
but I will include copies of the documents I found just for conversational sake and for a bit of the history of the company
Cool Bottle, Great Condition, UNIQUE History!

Cajeput is such an inexpensive oil, ditto rosemary.  Imagine the adulteration that can go on in expensive oils like rose, tuberose, etc.  We've all heard stories of s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d oils, tweaked and tinkered oils, and outright false advertising.  

This problem is particularly problematic for natural perfumers.  Not only do we have to source the highest grade/best smelling oils, we need to provide our customers and clients with a sense of security and trust that what they are buying is 100% natural.

The natural perfumer needs to train their nose, find reputable suppliers and work diligently to source 100% natural oils.  The recent trend towards buying 'blends' has me particularly concerned.  Whether an accord blend from a supplier, or a scent doppelganger, e.g., strawberry, raspberry, the chance of adulteration by a sophisticate is pretty high.  Hundreds of years of history have proven that the singular oils/herbs/spices are subject to adulteration, so premade compounds seem even more susceptible to this practice.  If the seller can't supply you with a COA (actually this might not cover compounds) or some sort of certified, sworn-to statement about the ingredients, DON'T BUY IT.  That's just me, and I'm really wary of sophisticates ;-)

What do you think? As a natural perfumer or customer, I'm hoping you are diligent and educated about this subject, and that you take care to avoid bunk oils/blends.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Definition of Natural Isolates for Fragrance Determined by Members of the Natural Perfumers Guild by a Majority Vote

The Natural Perfumers Guild, the world’s largest organization for natural perfumery, is defining the scope of natural aromatics in accord with the vision of our art. Natural isolates are aromatics consisting of odor molecules from natural materials. Members voted on what constitutes a natural isolate to meet challenges to the "naturalness" of isolates. The Guild position serves to guide members and to assure the public of the Guild’s commitment to high standards of the art of natural perfumery. The Guild's standard exceeds ISO 9235, the International Organization of Standardization publication on standards for aromatic raw materials.

Miami, FL, May 15, 2012 --( The Natural Perfumers Guild, the largest organization of natural perfumers in the world, is defining the scope of natural aromatic isolates in order to assist its professional natural perfumers as they move forward with their desire to use these scent materials. Natural isolates are single odor molecules that are extracted from natural raw materials using distillation techniques. They are obtained from botanicals such as rose, mint, and citrus. These isolated aromatics can add unique character and lift to natural perfumes.

Not within the definition of natural isolates, according to the Guild, are those isolates that are produced by various laboratory processes, including isolates that are produced using bacteria and fungi, or those created from other processed natural aromatic material (which can include using chemicals to process them).

The Guild Standards Committee worked through an extensive research and exploratory process to define natural isolates to a standard that reflects the mission and philosophy of both the Guild and its members. International standards were examined for the processes used worldwide in defining natural isolates. The Committee was unanimous in approval of the new standard, and the voting body of Guild members approved their recommendation by a 78% vote. This new standard adopted by the Guild exceeds the ISO 9235 standard for natural aromatic raw materials.

The definition of a natural isolate as it applies to the members of the Natural Perfumers Guild states:

A natural isolate is a molecule that was removed/isolated from a natural fragrance material, as delineated by the Guild in its definition of natural perfumery that contains the isolate. Processes that are acceptable for removing/isolation are: fractional distillations, rectifications, and molecular distillations of natural fragrance materials, also as defined by the Guild.

“This was a sensitive and deliberate process, and Guild members had many different opinions,” says Guild President Anya McCoy, "and the final vote was 78% for the least-processed isolates that were closest to the parent raw material." The Guild has updated its 2008 Definition of Natural Perfumery position paper, (which can be viewed at the link in the previous paragraph), to reflect this change. “I will be reformulating my best-selling perfume StarFlower by removing the isolate from it that I had thought was natural (in 2007).”
Contact Information
Natural Perfumers Guild
Anya McCoy


Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Love the Guild - membership event now through February 14th


We'd like to invite you to join the Natural Perfumers Guild during one of our rare membership events.  Now through February 14th, all new members will enjoy 12% off the membership fee, and will be eligible for the drawing of natural perfumery-related gifts. Please visit and use the code 1B6DE36B0C for the discount. 

The Natural Perfumers Guild is an international organization dedicated to all aspect of natural aromatics - history, growing, distillation and extraction, supply, regulations, perfumers, associates, suppliers and friends. 

Now in our fifth year, the Guild boasts a dynamic community discussion forum, several committees that address issues and opportunities and high Internet visibility due to several successful and thought-provoking blogging events such as the Mystery of Musk, Outlaw Perfume, Brave New Scents, Joy in January and more. 

Please visit our website and let me know if you have any further questions.  We hope to see you in the Guild!

Thursday, January 5, 2012

The Natural Perfumers Guild Welcomes French Natural Perfume House Honoré des Prés and Nose Olivia Giacobetti as Professional Perfumer

MIAMI, Florida /January 5, 2012

Noted French Natural Perfume Company Honoré des Prés Joins the Natural Perfumers Guild

Honoré des Prés’s perfumer Olivia Giacobetti’s is recognized as attaining Professional Perfumer status in the Guild.

The Natural Perfumers Guild is an international Association dedicated to perfumes and fragrance products made only with natural aromatics. The Guild is pleased to announce that Honoré des Prés, a leading French fine fragrance company, has joined the Guild.

Honoré des Prés was established by Christian David in 2008 with a goal to create 100% natural and artistic perfumes with an urban flair.  All Honore des Prés scents are eco-certified and don’t contain any synthetic aromachemicals, colorants or phthalates. The fragrances are composed by renowned perfumer Olivia Giacobetti. Honore des Prés has been widely lauded for its commitment to the global environment and is a favorite among celebrities such as Jessica Alba and Rachel Zoe.

Honoré des Pré has launched two lines since 2008:

- We Love New York collection: Vamp à NY, Love Coconut and Love Les Carottes.
- “Les Verrines d’Honoré”: Sexy Angelic, Honoré’s Trip, Nu Green and Chaman’s Party.

Since re-establishing the Guild in 2006, President Anya McCoy has seen the list of perfumers grow to an international group of highly-skilled and creative force. “With Honoré des Prés and Olivia Giacobetti now joining the Guild, our heightened presence in the international perfume community is obvious. We welcome them not just due to the obvious beauty of their perfumes, but also because of their commitment to using natural aromatics.”

For more information, contact:
Name: Michelyn and Didier Cholay
Phone:  516 208 2411